How to Make a Wooden Curtain Window Pelmet Box Free Instructions
Restored from the Empower Network archive (2011–2017), lightly edited to meet our current advertising standards. Views are the original author’s.
How to Make a Wooden Curtain Window Pelmet Box: Free Instructions
Fitting the hardware and hanging curtains and top treatments requires the same patience and high standards as curtain making. The overall design determines the type of fixtures required. If the heading is to be visible, curtains should be hung from a fabric-covered lath or a decorative pole. However, if the heading is covered by a pelmet, valance or swags and tails, the curtains can be hung from a track on a pelmet board or a valance rail and track. Follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions and advice when fitting tracks and poles.
Fitting hardware can be heavy work, so it makes sense to have someone with you to help; in most cases, you will definitely need another pair of strong hands. Ideally, curtain fixtures should be fixed into place before the curtains are made so that accurate measurements can be taken.
Tools you will need to make your window pelmet box
• Electric drill and drill bits • Pipe and cable detector
• Retractable steel tape measure • Spirit level
• Hammer and tacks • Staple gun and staples
• Pliers (a really strong pair) • Galvanised steel No.8 wood screws, 20-50mm (3/4-2in) • Wall plugs for No.8 wood screws • Screw drivers
• Step ladder • Extension lead • Wood doweling or plastics pacers
• Brackets for pelmet board • Tie-back hooks • Ess hooks
• Screw eyes • Small tenon saw • Plaster filler • Silicone spray
Professional Tip for Fixing your Window Pelmet Box
DRILLING Establish the type of surface that you will be drilling into and check carefully for any pipes or cables with a detector. When you start drilling, have someone hold a dustpan directly under the drill to stop dust getting into the air and falling onto your brand new curtains.
To prevent Wood from splitting, make a pilot hole with a bradawl or small drill bit. Do not drill too closely to the edge of a window, because that can also cause splitting. Brick does not usually present any problems. Watch out for red brick dust because it can stain curtains. If the bricks are soft you could go up to a No.12 screw, 50mm (2in), provided it fits through the bracket holes. Breeze blocks are softer than bricks; to ensure a snug fit use a drill bit smaller than the required size. Plaster board requires special plugs for hollow walls. Hollow wall plugs expand behind the plaster board to give a secure fixing for the screw.
There are a wide range of hollow wall plugs on the market, so if you are unsure ask for assistance when purchasing. Concrete lintel is an exceptionally hard surface to drill into; you will need a powerful hammer-action drill. Replace drill bits frequently, as they quickly become blunt and ineffective.
Window Pelmet Box follow these instructions
The pelmet box is made from 20mm (3/4 in) PSE timber and are either painted or covered with matching fabric.
The length of the board should be approximately 5cm (2in) longer than the track, to allow space for the curtain to be returned to the wall.
The width of the board is usually in the range of 15-23cm (6-9in). The width is dictated by the number of layers used in the window treatment and also any protrusions, such as radiators, that could affect the hang of the curtain.
When pelmets, valances, swags and tails are fixed to the front edge of a pelmet board the curtain track should be set back 6-8cm (2-3in) to allow the curtains free movement. A similar distance is required between the track and the wall or window, hence the depth of a pelmet box is usually 12-18cm (5-7in).
End brackets should be approximately 2.5cm (1in) shorter than the width of the board to give maximum support. A centre bracket is required for pelmet box’s over 170cm (67in) long. These have a short back plate so that they are unobtrusive.
At one side of the window, measure up from the top of the window to the bottom of where you want the pelmet box to be. Mark with a pencil, then repeat on the other side. Using a flat piece of wood or a metre stick, draw a line between the two points.
If this line looks level to the eye, mark the position of the brackets. Hold one bracket against the wall and mark the wall through the screw holes with a pencil. Repeat for the second bracket and any other brackets. Drill holes about 44mm. (l 3/4in) into the wall. Insert plugs into the wall and fix the brackets securely to the wall with No.8 (1 3/4 in) screws.
Lay the pelmet board across the brackets and centre it over the window. On the underside of the pelmet board, mark through the screw holes with a bradawl. Using No.8 25mm (l1in) screws, secure the pelmet box into position
Converting a pelmet board to a box board (adding fixed end pieces) will make it sturdier and allows the returns (sides) of the pelmet to be secured. This is especially advantageous when making a stiff pelmet.
Wooden Curtain Window Pelmet Box
Professional Tip
If necessary use wood doweling or plastic spacers to create a gap between the board and the track for the arms of the brackets to slip through. The width of the board is usually in the range of 15-23cm (6-9in). The width is dictated by the number of layers used in the window treatment and also any protrusions, such as radiators, that could affect the hang of the curtain.
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